I vår och sommar är mitt stora fokus att ge klättring ännu mer tid. Egen träning och mer jobb på klippan och i bergen för att dela det jag gillar allra mest tillsammans med er som vill upptäcka!
Särskilt det senaste året så har jag försökt att bibehålla en kontinuitet i min klättring, så även under vintersäsongen när skidåkning primärt fått mest utrymme. Detta ihop med att jag också har arbetat med klättring kontinuerligt under det senaste året – utomhus och inomhus – har verkligen gjort skillnad på min nivå och självförtroende. Superkul!
Ett av mina mål med klättringen är att fortsätta min utbildning som instruktör för att kunna dela många fler äventyr i bergen och på klipporna än vad jag redan gör idag. Det betyder att jag kommer att fortsätta klättra mycket sport/ledklättring, men ännu mer traditionell klättring med kilar och kammar och framförallt längre turer, s.k. multi-pitch.
Är du intresserad av klättring, kanske nybörjare eller önskar bli boostad? Oavsett nivå så kan du boka en kurs eller skräddarsytt upplägg med mig som din instruktör och coach.
This summer has been all about following a plan where I first where suppose to start train climbing again several times a week, training with rope tecniques, mountain safety and rescue on glaciers, and finally go out climbing and mountaineering with a guide to learn more about how to move in exposed mountain terrain. So, I did all of this with a strong focus straight after winter season that ended in May.
Two days ago I went out in the mountains and this time I was the one leading all the way.
It´s such a cool feeling when you realize that you overcome so many fears. You turned the fears into fascination and let your passion and joy take over. I guess I had that feeling because I felt safe in what I do. I always have margins on my side. Not to mention all training and coursese I done to finally be ready to go out and ”learning by doing”. So, this is a short summary of our mountaineering-adventure from the Almagellerhütte up to beautiful Weissmies – which is now the first mountain I did lead.
ALPINE START – LIGHTET BY THE STARS AND MOON IN THE DARK
As you start early in the morning (or night?) there was complete dark when we woke up. Clear sky and light stars lightened up the sky. Actually I don´t know if anyone reflected about that, except of me and Natta. Everyone was in a hurry to get started, early as possible. Meanwhile we soaked in the atmosphere and tried to stay calm under the sky and stars. You can be fast – and still not rush. 😉
04.00 The alarm was set and it´s time for breakfast.
05.10 We started our hike from Almagellerhütte 2894 m.
06.05 The sunrise was almost there when reaching the Zurchenbergenspass. If it was´t for the 3 more hours to climb that awaited I think I would just sit down and breath. Meditate til the most beautiful sunrise. I mean, it´s about 15-20 minutes when it really burns before you see the whole sun rise over the mountain ridges.
06.40 Crampons on. Time to walk in snow and as we already carried the crampons with us we thought it was better to walk with them on, than carry them in our backpacks.
08.00 Climbing up on the south ridge to Weissmies. Alpine grade of climbing is PD and UIIA 2. I think Natta did a really great job her first time out climbing a ridge. Me myself had a good moment of practicing with short rope.
I know that I sometimes doubt in my balance when I climb steep and exposed terrain in the mountains. But with rope in my hand everything suddenly changed. I was leading, walking with rope in my hands and no chance to use them as I usually do when following a guide. The experience of holding the rope made me feel like coming home. I started to trust myself in a way I never done before when mountaineering. I knew that I know this. I CAN.
The feeling of ”coming home”, sort of ”belonging” or this is ”who I am”. That´s a strong and convinced happening when you get there. In that moment I did´t doubt anymore, and I still don´t. This is what I will keep do. This is where I belong. I was coming home.
11.00 Decision time. When I go out in the mountains or do guiding I always put up a plan with time slots where you have to make a decision – depending on if you´re following your plan in time and distance/altitude (that you of course already made before the start).
So we followed the plan, and started to climb down. With only 100 metres of altitude left to the peak. In my head I could already list 4 ”why” we should turn and that was enough for me to make the decision.
11.15 Reaching the peak is NOT the goal. It´s part of the journey. So I think I never feel disappointed about not reaching a peak. The summit is not always about the summit, today the summit was about feeling confident working with short rope and bringing a friend out in the mountains. And so I did.
Also we had the longest hike awaiting as we where going all the way back to Saas Almagell. Over and all it´s more than 2000 metres of altitude, down. And we already climbed over 1000 metres up, almost reaching a 4000 m-peak.
Back in Saas-Almagell I promise you that both of us felt tired – but oh, so damn happy!
BACK IN HOME IN ENGELBERG
Yesterday I was making notes and reflection about the alpine tour we did. There´s so much to learn about takes from 1-2 days reflection. And soon enough I was starting to type new peaks, mountain routes, dates… Motivaion and energy slowly getting back. Motivation and convinced that I soon will go in out the mountains again!
I was summarazing my last month and could see that I really put a lot off effort into my climbing. So much that I actually miss running a lot right now! Instead of focusing on going out for hiking, running and gym sessions (which I usually tend to do often), I instead took every chance I could to get as much time as possible on the rock. Pre-summer goal was to reach a level where I trust my lead climbing, isn´t that scare to fall (still sometimes have this battle with freights of heights) and to start again with traditional climbing and train even more in climbing safety and rope techniques.
I must say that I truly achieved what I put up as goal pre-summer.
In total the last month I have been climbing outdoor 13 days and been instructing several events where partipicants thru Systrar i bergen been able to try top rope-climbing in Stockholm.
I just love to work outdoors! But also to explore and connect with the mountains and nature. It all motivates me to keep grow and expand my own limits in each new adventure. I want to do much more of this, and so I will.
CLIMBING OUTSIDE OF ÅRE
Last summer I became a (Swedish) Hjälpinstruktör. This is the first step if you wanna go further to the exam as a rock climbing instructor.
My course as a Hjälpinstruktör was hold at a rock called Stugun, it´s about 140 km from Åre but I think it´s definitely the best climbing area in Jämtland.
This week I had the opportunity to go back climbing in Stugun with two Åre-friends. It felt good to be back and it makes me happy pushing my level thru climbing to new grades these days. We did sport climbing with quick draws / expresses and traditional climbing with friends and nuts.
So far this summer I managed to lead in sport climbing a 6B- and in traditional climbing me and Ivar, actually we picked the wrong route in the start, so we did a 6A+-6B-. When we where suppose to make a 5-!
I would NEVER tried to lead with friends and nuts if I knew about the level. This makes me tho wanna push my grades harder. I think I can beat it. Because it´s obvious that my biggest challenge at the moment is my fear of falling.
When I push myself in climbing I need to go into myself. It´s almost like when I go into meditation. Breathing, letting thoughts out of control, feel my body getting in contact with the rock and the movements are always with trust and patience. There´s no such thing as ”time or time limit”, it´s not important. What´s important is to listen to my inner, keep my confidence and to feel trust in my belay-partner. Than – I am ready to GO for the next higher move!
My first time at Mallorca was special in that way of feeling a strong connection to nature and the animals. My intuition got stronger and I could feel part of me telling me where to go, what to do or just how to be. Stay calm. Happy and close to myself without any negative influence and energy.
If you already been following me, you might know that this connection to nature is also what I feel to the mountains in Engelberg – and that is the reason why I wanted to move there. And yes, there are many more places…. a part of Italy also makes my heart beat and my soul expand lighter.
Back to Majorca. I love the climbing at Mallorca. There´s so many cool places for lead climbing with mixed nature and amazing views from the rocks.
By car you´ll easily in 1,5 hour will be able to explore the Islands wherever you stay.
So far I mostly been climbing from Palma in south, to Valdemossa in the west and up to the north close to Alcudia and Cap de Formentor. My favorite location so far is for sure Valdemossa. There´s so many routes for every level, beginner to more advance climbers. It reminds me of spending time surrounded by the mountains as you find the rocks on a higher altitude compared to many other locations on the Island.
Last time I had one of my most rad nature experience while climbing with FOUR big eagels above in the sky. Thank you nature!
CLIMB TOGETHER WITH ME ON MALLORCA
When I explore places I always want to share them with people who search for a new experience. That´s one reason why I started Systrar i bergen or nowadays focusing more to become a mountain guide, because I want to be able to bring you to these beautiful places and be your guide.
Last trip to Mallorca was with my first group. Together we had such a unwinding, cozy and good climbing trip.
Emelie, one of my sweet guest let me share her review from the trip:
”I think I never felt like this in my whole body. Tired after all climbing but also so happy! We are pleased about everything with the trip and will continue our climbing during this summer. Hope to meet you again at any rock – climbing together. Thank you for showing us Mallorca!”.
Later in August I will organize the same trip back to Mallorca. You are more than welcome to join! Each weekend holds 4 paxes. The trip demands that you have (Swedish) ”rött kort” lead climbing indoors and can climb a 4C outdoor – leading. We climb both sport and top rope.
Please don´t hesitate sending your questions or book one of the paxes.
Genom ett samarbete med Addnature.com fick jag en fråga om att skriva om en aktivitet kopplat till den utrustning som jag använder. Eftersom att klättring ligger mig allt närmre under sommarsäsongen så såg jag en bra chans att reda ut begrepp för dig som vill börja klättra eller förstå mer av all utrustning som klättring kan innefatta.
Klättring som aktivitet är nästintill som skidåkning för mig. Du börjar allra mest troligt att utveckla din skidåkning i pisten. Provar därefter kanske att åka offpist/freeride. Därefter utvecklar du ditt skidregister till topptur och eventuellt större bergsäventyr som innebär skidåkning + mountaineering/klättring.
I klättring börjar vi oftast med att klättra topprep eller kanske bouldering. I bouldering räcker det med utrustning som klätterskor och kalk (som du använder till händerna för att få bättre grepp när du klättrar).
Från topprepsklättring är nästa steg att börja ledklättra, alltså gå vidare mot sportklättring. Helt plötsligt krävs ytterligare utrustning och ännu mer kunskap om klippa, approach, väderpåverkan och ja, det mesta liknar hur du planerar turer i snön men nu ger du dig ut på klippor eller stora berg för att klättra.
I all klättring utomhus förutsätter jag redan att vi har klätterskor, klättersele och hjälm. Den utrustning som jag tipsar om är det du behöver för topprep och sportklättring.
Ifall att du har frågor och funderingar – kommentera gärna! <3
UTRUSTNING FÖR DIG SOM VILL KLÄTTRA
Topprep innebär att du har ett fast ankare högst upp på den led som du klättrar. Ett ankare för topprep kan du göra på olika sätt. Antingen med statiska rep som du oftast knyter runt träd som fasta punkter. Ett annat alternativ är att använda två fasta bultar, oftast med en kedja hängandes mellan bultarna. Bultarna är borrade på klippa för att kunna sätta topprep med slinga och skruvkarbiner eller användas som ankare för sportklättring.
Låt oss säga att vi utgår från att det finns borrade bultar och kedja för topprepsankare. Utrustning:
Klätterrep, som är mer än dubbelt så långt som den längd du ska klättra. Är leden 20 meter hög bör repet vara minst 50 meter långt.
Slingor – jag använder oftast 120 och 240 cm långa slingor
1 HMS-karbin och repbroms
Klättersele + hjälm och klätterskor
När vi sportklättrar leder vi vår egen klättring och säkrar in oss vartefter vi når nästa bult i berget. Vid varje bult klipper vi in en quickdraw för att sedan klippa in repet i. När vi har klättrat hela vägen till toppen av leden (lett leden) så klipper vi in i ankaret med två expresser och därefter finns flera alternativ. Vad som alltid är detsamma är att vi innan vi lämnar leden och klippan är att leden ska rensas. Alltså ta ned alla quickdraws och utrustning som vi använt under sportklättringen.
Hur vi gör det går jag inte in på i nämre beskrivning just nu, men svarar så gärna på dessa frågor om ni skriver en kommentar eller skickar ett mail.
Till sportklättring krävs alltså att det finns borrade bultar att "klippa in" dina quickdraws i.
Klätterrep, som är mer än dubbelt så långt som den längd du ska klättra. Är leden 20 meter hög bör repet vara minst 50 meter långt.
Slingor – jag använder oftast 120 och 240 cm långa slingor
Extra utrustning som jag alltid tar med:
* 1 prusik
* Grigri som repbroms, föredrar att använda den om jag klättrar med en person som väger mer än mig.
* Extra quickdraws
* Extra skurvkarbiner
* Första hjälpen-kit
PROVA PÅ TOPREP-UTE
I sommar arrangerar jag som instruktör event för dig som vill Prova på att klättra topprep utomhus. Skicka ett mail om du vill boka ett datum med mig, firstname.lastname@example.org.
A GREAT MOUNTAIN EXPERIENCE AROUND THE HIGHEST PEAK IN ENGELBERG
The Titlis Rundtour is a 1-2 days mountain adventure, depending if you would like to stay one night in the bivouac and have more time for ski touring and amazing freeride-turns.
Yesterday I did Titlis Rundtour for the first time with two friends. As I´ve got a lot of question about the tour I will give you a short description of it from my point of view. But most of all, will I share our day by posting photos that Jesper took. This time I totally forgot my phone and camera and just went all-in to our little ski and mountain-adventure in Engelberg.
So nice to just feel the mountains and the energy that surrounded us.
Tobias Granath, a Swedish mountain guide in Engelberg, have actually written a detailed description of the tour in 2015. Which one I red a couple of times before we went. Read more here. >>
TITLIS RUNDTOUR 31TH MARCH
07.00 There´s a chance to go early in the morning when you go for the Titlis Rundtour. Just remember to book a seat in the first gondola from Titlis Bottom Station a few days before to make sure you get a place.
Otherwise take the first gondola, Titlis X-press, at 8.30.
The reason why you wanna you go early in the morning is because this is a popular route and you might have to wait for other groups when it´s time for the abseiling-part. Especially in the weekends.
8.30 The tour starts immediately from top Klein Titlis 3062m. At first you ski down Steinberg gletcher and then take left to Hinters Titlisjoch 2695m. From here you put on your crampons and put your skis on the back pack. It´s time to go on a airy ridge. About 5 minutes walk later you´ll reach the first anchor point and it´s time to abseil the first colouir. I found it wisely to use my ice axe here.
Depending on snow condition you can ski more or less in the corridor, but still, it will be steep skiing.
We brought a 60 meters rope. Which is good, I think. My conclusion was tho that it´s easier if you have the possibility to attach two rope and go for a longer abseil right on start. So next time, I would bring two ropes – if the snow condition would be as it was yesterday.
After abseiling the first part you ski down to the next corridor. You can ski the first part of the second corridor to the anchor point. But from here I would say it´s a good ide to use rope and abseil two times.
After the last repelling you ski all the way down to 2100m, and now it´s time to put on the skins. Almost 700m ski touring is waiting. The first part is steep. Remember to bring you ski crampons in case of icy terrain. When you climbed the first steep 200m of ski touring a longer and less steep, but also a really beautiful ski touring, is waiting ahead round the Titlis-peak.
You´ll go all the way up to Bivak am Grassen 2747m. At this point it´s probably time for lunch break surrounded by the beautify.
From here you ski down on the North side with most of the time good snow. I was surprise over the wide area of freeride-skiing.
When we reached this amazing field of skiing I felt that I will do the Titlis Rundtour many more times. The route-finding down to Fürenalp-valley is not hard if you are familiar with the area and double check the map. The Fürenalp-valley is one of my favorite to hike in Engelberg. I just love this part of the valley!
Lower down the valley we had one last traverse over the glacier stream. At that time we had to take of our skis and walk over the stones. The last part in spring conditions was so fascinating and almost like a fairytale. Arriving at the road, walking back to Fürenalp lift station, was a fabulous! Walking away from massive peaks covered in snow, sun was shining everywhere, birds singing and flowers of spring covered the roadsides as we went down the valley.
All of us, happy and exhausted (at least I was) after a long day out in the mountains, we said it totally looked as the most romantic post card.
Namasté mountains, Engelberg, Jesper and Lasse for a new great mountain adventure and experience. I love when magical things happen. Yesterday was a magic day.
With love and light mountain spirit,
Do you wanna do the Titlis Rundtour with me and likeminded? You can still book a 1-2 day with me and a local mountain guide in Engelberg.
As more and more of my followers in social media don´t speak Swedish I will write the next blog post in English. Social media as a platform is a channel where I can share my adventures, passion to explore the mountains, my beloved skiing and ski teaching and the adventure of being a female entrepreneur in the outdoor industry (Systrar i bergen AB). What I have seen is that I inspire others to follow their dreams and to that cause I try to write blog posts each and then to reach out.
I´m now home in Engelberg after two days well spent on ice. I don´t see myself as a competitive person, unless I attend a competition. Than I sure am a competitive person. But when I´m out in the mountains, I never compete.
As an entrepreneur, one of my strongest ”skill” is that I BRING IDEAS and DREAMS INTO LIFE. I never just talk about what I would like to do, I act. Always. Acting for me is about making plans to reach your goal, creating space to get time and sometimes even money and try to connect to people that can help me/you to get where I/you want.
Back to ice climbing. Early in the winter season I made a promised to myself, that I would go ice climbing at least once. Next winter I want to feel prepared to lead in ice climbing.
Pretty much close to the end of the ice climbing-season 18/19 I finally got the pieces together. Almost unbelievable. Because since november/december I did not only pay a spot into a ice climbing-course that where cancelled in Engelberg, searched for instructors in whole Sweden (and made contact with the all few 5 ice-instructors there are) and as the last piece that made it never happened – i worked every day in 6 weeks.
So, a week ago I made space in my calendar hoping that Martin, a mountain guide and friend from Chamonix, would like to join me for two days in Kandersteg, Switzerland. Which he did, and thanks to him I learnt a lot during our two days together. I improved from a newly beginner to a ”not-beginner” on ice.
It feels like I already been ice climbing before. Maybe, I finally get a little reward after all those hours I spent at the climbing gym in Stockholm during my work-trips. That reward tho, feels so damn good!
During my ice climb it felt like I got fast into the technique. But the most evolving part was that I step into my mental strength in a new level while being out in the exposed terrain.
Hanging vertical with crampons and two ice axes over 100 meter from the ground trying to pull out the next ice screw I started to question myself. Or my fear of heights did.
I tried to not loose my grip when my ”monkey-mind” went madly and told me that I was not good enough, that I should be afraid of the ice I didn´t know that well, that I was on a higher point from the first climbing pitch and fuck it´s so steep and what if my ice axes grip not holding, what if I fall and what about that I used to be frightened about heights… In one point I chose to go towards my negative thoughts. I started to breath calming, talking loudly to myself, encouraging that I sure could do this. So wisely I put positive energy back into my flow of climbing. Paus. Breathing. Slowly, with a even stronger focused I started to climb again. And suddenly I didn´t find it that hard anymore. I felt stronger and more relaxed to the situation. I overcome my fear and started to trust in myself again.
Climbing is the most mental challenging game I ever done. But when you start to change you mindset every time you feel stress and insecurity running over you – than I promise you that you CAN achieve whatever you want. You can always chose your thoughts.
I feel so humble each time I improve and develop a new insight, skill or technical movement in the mountains. I am forever grateful that I have this life and I love to live it to the fullest – in my next chapter of life I want to keep share my mountain passion with you! And that is why I want to become a mountain guide.
MALLORCA – A MAGIC ISLAND FULL OF LIGHT AND HEALING
Usually I write every blog post in Swedish but this time I decided to share my inspiration to everyone and than an English version is to prefer. First of all, THANK YOU for following my journey. I do hope it inspires you to believe in your most precious dreams and desire. Life is beautiful and so are you!
Right now there´s a few hours before I enter the next flight to Stockholm from Palma airport. I feel beyond grateful for this journey and that I managed to reach one of my biggest inner goal during summer season. But first – let me share this story with you. With love.
Due a ski accident May 2017 I broke my inner knee and summers -18 scheduling to learn more about rock climbing and alpine climbing went on hold. Instead I made a tremendous work of hours with rehab during 8-9 month. All those hours I spent at the gym, my yoga-math and training mental strength just to be able to ski the next winter season 17/18. Therefor summer 2017 was going to be special. Finally I would do all those things that I was aiming for. Learning how to climb and hopefully becoming a instructor so I soon enough would be able to bring people to this amazing nature. But, instead of just searching for likeminded friends to climb with and to improve my knowledge about climbing I had to start over once again… In april 2018 I was in a really bad ski accident. Most of you don´t know what really happened, and I understand why. No one could tell what really happened when they saw me days after – because I didn´t break any legs this time. Instead I broke my trust to people in the mountains and I was more frightened than ever. I was battle a death agony. From a long, steep and icy fall.
So what really matters for me (besides LIFE) is that I was brave enough to still concquer and to believe that I CAN. A few days after the accident I went back standing on my skis. Still with a light brain concussion – but that was an important step for me. Just to feel the snow and the skiing was all I needed. Than I knew. I knew skiing is part of what I gonna do the rest of my life. The mountains is now within my heart and soul.
Having a bad accident can cost you a lot of mental pain. And this is the link to my climbing. Some of you know that I started to climb a few years ago to overcome my freights of heights. But at this moment I had to overcome new fears. Start over again.
Early this season I did that. I decided to train myself within climbing as a number one activity in the mountains. There was still a main problem. I didn´t have that many friends to either practice or climb together with. So I took every chance I got, always with one significant rule – always feel trust with the person you climb with.
It´s not easy to find people or likeminded friends. You need to be opened, social, put yourself into situation where you get in touch with people etc. Today I´m happy to tell that I´ve made a lot of new likeminded friends during the summer. Not always easy, but in time I got there.
Wrapping up ”climbing season” (haha, love that word – not summer season anymore) at Mallorca was the best best decision ever. Best in that way that I got the chance to climb outdoors in a new level. But also because I had to share all moments with special people. Mallorca is for sure a magical place on earth.
I believe in our spirit and the enlightenment. And Mallorca is full of good vibes if you also look for an inner adventure.
Enjoy photos from Mallorca and be kind to yourself, always.
Redan i maj började jag klättra utomhus. Då var mitt stora mål att bli instruktör denna säsong och att ta igen all den klättring som jag hade önskat göra året innan. Men som då sattes stopp av en krossad knäskål maj 2017.
Det nalkas november och än är min klättersäsong inte slut. Helt otroligt, och samtidigt fantastiskt att jag gjorde allt det här som jag drömde om att göra! Som handlade om att både klättra så mycket och varierat som möjligt men framförallt att bli auktoriserad klätterinstruktör (auktoriserad hjälpinstruktör enligt Svensk norm) som leder till att jag kan arbeta med klättring.
Att hitta nya vänner till aktiviteter, som dessutom innefattar säkerhet och tillit, är inte alltid självklart. Hade jag känt fler vänner som klättrat runtom alperna så hade jag säkert klättrat än mer denna sommar. Men jag är också glad för alla de otaliga springturer som jag i stället fått i bergen.
Just nu är jag tillbaka i Stockholm för ett frilansuppdrag. Jag har kastat mig in i nya reklamproduktioner där jag produktions- och projektleder team i allt från grafiska enheter, kommunikation online till heldagar med arrangerade fotograferingar. Superkul att arbeta tillsammans med nya team och professionella inom reklam och marknadsföring igen. Älskar ju kommunikation minst lika mycket som berg och skidåkning!
I Stockholm har jag senast året lärt känna flera klätterkompisar och just därför blir det mycket träning inomhus i klätterhallarna. Avslutningen på denna klättersäsong blir dock på samma sätt som den startade i maj – utomhus. Mot slutet av november reser jag till Mallorca och jag ser så mycket fram emot att få klättra utomhus med allt jag har med mig i form av övervunna rädslor, styrka fysiskt och mentalt men kanske mest av allt – att få dela nya äventyr i bergen med nyfunna vänner som delar samma passion.
SÖKER DU MOTIVATION I NOVEMBER?
Så bra! Boka in min nästa träningsgrupp i Sthlm. Fyra tillfällen mellan 6-15 november. En chans att lysa upp i höstmörkret och förbereda kroppen för den stundande vintern och all skidåkning eller brädåkning. Maila till email@example.com om du vill anmäla en plats.
Tipsar också om nästa Skiers Breakfast i Sthlm torsdag morgon 15 november. Där du som deltar automatiskt är med i en utlottning av fria hotellnätter och ski pass, sponsrat av Engelberg Tourism. Så himla bra!
Kommer ni ihåg att jag för två veckor sedan skrev om ett nystartat content-projekt som heter #passionateskier? I dagarna är Maja tillbaka hos mig i Engelberg och vi producerar just nu Episod 2 av serien.