Mountaineering training to Weissmies 4023 alt

MOUNTAINEERING TRAINING IN SAAS-FEE AND WEISSMIES

 

This summer has been all about following a plan where I first where suppose to start train climbing again several times a week, training with rope tecniques, mountain safety and rescue on glaciers, and finally go out climbing and mountaineering with a guide to learn more about how to move in exposed mountain terrain. So, I did all of this with a strong focus straight after winter season that ended in May.

Two days ago I went out in the mountains and this time I was the one leading all the way.  

Sunset close to Almagellerhütti

It´s such a cool feeling when you realize that you overcome so many fears. You turned the fears into fascination and let your passion and joy take over. I guess I had that feeling because I felt safe in what I do. I always have margins on my side. Not to mention all training and coursese I done to finally be ready to go out and ”learning by doing”. So, this is a short summary of our mountaineering-adventure from the Almagellerhütte up to beautiful Weissmies – which is now the first mountain I did lead.

Namasté. 

Hiking from Almagellealp to Almagellerhütte.

ALPINE START – LIGHTET BY THE STARS AND MOON IN THE DARK

As you start early in the morning (or night?) there was complete dark when we woke up. Clear sky and light stars lightened up the sky. Actually I don´t know if anyone reflected about that, except of me and Natta. Everyone was in a hurry to get started, early as possible. Meanwhile we soaked in the atmosphere and tried to stay calm under the sky and stars. You can be fast – and still not rush. 😉

 

04.00 The alarm was set and it´s time for breakfast.

05.10 We started our hike from Almagellerhütte 2894 m.

06.05 The sunrise was almost there when reaching the Zurchenbergenspass. If it was´t for the 3 more hours to climb that awaited I think I would just sit down and breath. Meditate til the most beautiful sunrise. I mean, it´s about 15-20 minutes when it really burns before you see the whole sun rise over the mountain ridges.

06.40 Crampons on. Time to walk in snow and as we already carried the crampons with us we thought it was better to walk with them on, than carry them in our backpacks.

08.00 Climbing up on the south ridge to Weissmies. Alpine grade of climbing is PD and UIIA 2. I think Natta did a really great job her first time out climbing a ridge. Me myself had a good moment of practicing with short rope.

I know that I sometimes doubt in my balance when I climb steep and exposed terrain in the mountains. But with rope in my hand everything suddenly changed. I was leading, walking with rope in my hands and no chance to use them as I usually do when following a guide. The experience of holding the rope made me feel like coming home. I started to trust myself in a way I never done before when mountaineering. I knew that I know this. I CAN.

The feeling of ”coming home”, sort of ”belonging” or this is ”who I am”. That´s a strong and convinced happening when you get there. In that moment I did´t doubt anymore, and I still don´t. This is what I will keep do. This is where I belong. I was coming home.

Climbing the south ridge.

11.00 Decision time. When I go out in the mountains or do guiding I always put up a plan with time slots where you have to make a decision – depending on if you´re following your plan in time and distance/altitude (that you of course already made before the start).

So we followed the plan, and started to climb down. With only 100 metres of altitude left to the peak. In my head I could already list 4 ”why” we should turn and that was enough for me to make the decision.

11.15 Reaching the peak is NOT the goal. It´s part of the journey. So I think I never feel disappointed about not reaching a peak. The summit is not always about the summit, today the summit was about feeling confident working with short rope and bringing a friend out in the mountains. And so I did.

Also we had the longest hike awaiting as we where going all the way back to Saas Almagell. Over and all it´s more than 2000 metres of altitude, down. And we already climbed over 1000 metres up, almost reaching a 4000 m-peak.

Back in Saas-Almagell I promise you that both of us felt tired – but oh, so damn happy!

Strong girl!
Favorite energy!
Last part of the south ridge.

 

BACK IN HOME IN ENGELBERG

Yesterday I was making notes and reflection about the alpine tour we did. There´s so much to learn about takes from 1-2 days reflection. And soon enough I was starting to type new peaks, mountain routes, dates… Motivaion and energy slowly getting back. Motivation and convinced that I soon will go in out the mountains again!

Thank you Natta for trusting me!

Mountain trails from Champoluc

HIKE-TRIP WITH SYSTRAR I BERGEN IN CHAMPOLUC (ITALY)

 

Last week I had the pleasure going back to Champoluc in Italy with a group that wanted to explore new hiking trails and enjoy the beautiful nature close to Champoluc.

This is for sure the perks of being an entrepreneur and hiking guide, to go out with people and share this great experience.

Hiking trails into one of many beautiful valleys.

 

As always when I organize these kind of trips anyone can join. It´s none depending on your level and we never focus on the achievement. When I go out in the mountains or nature it´s all about finding a connection and having a good time together with likeminded. With that idea I love to share my places around the trails and bring people together.

Let me share a few, of many, photos from our amazing trip.

Once again – thank you for letting me go out with you!

Mountain light,
Johanna

 

Hiking trails Champoluc

 

Decent view from the hotel room.

 

Flowers makes anyone happy, I think.

 

Glaciers water flowing like a big river down the mountains.

 

Orientation, which trail will we explore the next day? 

 

It´s important to keep the balance between long hikes, high altitude and the relaxation. 😉 

 

Happy hikers!

One month of educational training and instructing in rock climbing

BACK HOME IN ÅRE FOR A WEEK

 

One week touch down home in Åre. It´s been a lot of planning for the next 2 month that I will:
– be away-home in the alpes again
– work with new climbing-events and as a instructor indoor climbing in Stockholm
– guiding a new hike trip thru Systrar i bergen to Björkliden and Riksgränsen and hopefully a new weekend to Majorca awaits with rock climbing.

Hemma i Åre.

 

I was summarazing my last month and could see that I really put a lot off effort into my climbing. So much that I actually miss running a lot right now! Instead of focusing on going out for hiking, running and gym sessions (which I usually tend to do often), I instead took every chance I could to get as much time as possible on the rock. Pre-summer goal was to reach a level where I trust my lead climbing, isn´t that scare to fall (still sometimes have this battle with freights of heights) and to start again with traditional climbing and train even more in climbing safety and rope techniques.

I must say that I truly achieved what I put up as goal pre-summer.

In total the last month I have been climbing outdoor 13 days and been instructing several events where partipicants thru Systrar i bergen been able to try top rope-climbing in Stockholm.

I just love to work outdoors! But also to explore and connect with the mountains and nature. It all motivates me to keep grow and expand my own limits in each new adventure. I want to do much more of this, and so I will.

Sportklättring Mallorca

CLIMBING OUTSIDE OF ÅRE

Last summer I became a (Swedish) Hjälpinstruktör. This is the first step if you wanna go further to the exam as a rock climbing instructor.

My course as a Hjälpinstruktör was hold at a rock called Stugun, it´s about 140 km from Åre but I think it´s definitely the best climbing area in Jämtland.

This week I had the opportunity to go back climbing in Stugun with two Åre-friends. It felt good to be back and it makes me happy pushing my level thru climbing to new grades these days. We did sport climbing with quick draws / expresses and traditional climbing with friends and nuts.

Stora väggen.

 

So far this summer I managed to lead in sport climbing a 6B- and in traditional climbing me and Ivar, actually we picked the wrong route in the start, so we did a 6A+-6B-. When we where suppose to make a 5-!

I would NEVER tried to lead with friends and nuts if I knew about the level. This makes me tho wanna push my grades harder. I think I can beat it. Because it´s obvious that my biggest challenge at the moment is my fear of falling.

When I push myself in climbing I need to go into myself. It´s almost like when I go into meditation. Breathing, letting thoughts out of control, feel my body getting in contact with the rock and the movements are always with trust and patience. There´s no such thing as ”time or time limit”, it´s not important. What´s important is to listen to my inner, keep my confidence and to feel trust in my belay-partner. Than – I am ready to GO for the next higher move! 

 

Frassehyttan som Östersunds Klätterklubb så fint har hand om för oss som vill stanna någon natt under tak vid Stugun.

 

Repetition olika varianter på standplatser vid trad-klättring.

 

Mountain Safety within rock climbing

 

Super nice leading from trad-climbing in Stugun.

 

Abseiling from a tree at Stugun. We thought that 2 pitches at level 6+ was good enough for today.  ; )